Yep, that's right. We were all set to go- tickets reserved, hostel booked- or so we thought!
I don't know if you've heard about Ryan Air, but if you've spent any time on this side of the Atlantic, you probably know about the Ireland-based, cheap-as-crap airline that connects most major UK/EU cities. And friends, they're cheap as crap for a reason. I'll spare you the rant, but the bottom line is that despite receiving a confirmation email, our tickets were never actually reserved...which meant that until about 12 hours before our flight was due to leave, we thought we were going on a holiday that didn't actually exist.
Bummer? I'd say so.
Not to be deterred, Greg and I decided to salvage our time off and see if we couldn't make some fun out of our non-starter holiday. Scotland was enjoying unusually delightful weather earlier this week, so I packed up my backpack and headed out to Glasgow. We spent time in the sunshine, watching the seas of humanity camped out on one hill in Kelvingrove Park, collectively transforming into lobsters over the course of the afternoon... And okay, seriously. I have yet to find a better opportunity for people-watching. We brought a bag of crisps and a beach towel and settled in like we were watching a film (maybe some kind of documentary- "Scottish Natives Encounter the Sun," or perhaps "Glasgow at Play." Or, to borrow Greg's description "The Fleshtival."). It was delightful.
The next morning, caught an early bus to Edinburgh.
Fresh off the bus! (Castle barely visible beyond the park/mist...obnoxious bagpiper not pictured.)
Here's where things get interesting... We were wandering in a new direction that we usually wander when we're there, and ended up about 20 minutes outside the city centre. And as some of you know, when I wander far and don't eat, I sometimes pass out. So, to avoid this, we stopped in the first cafe we saw: a place called Braw, where we inevitably struck up a conversation with the owners. Apart from being very sweet (and throwing in free coffee!), they also suggested that if we were looking for something a little offbeat to do, we could take a stroll in the drizzly afternoon down by the Waters of Leith.
That's us! On a bridge!
We had. No. Idea. How gorgeous Edinburgh could be outside the city centre. We ended up strolling along this river by a moss-covered stone wall for a long while. I'm certain the walk wasn't actually very long distance-wise, but Greg likes to stop and smell the roses (sometimes literally) even more than I do. In fact, I think I come off as somewhat of a slave-driver in comparison. But even I couldn't resist dawdling along and examining all the wildflowers growing along the bank.
Exhibit A: Greg, in utter awe at nature's miracles.
Exhibit B: Me, looking like a surly teenager, not at all impressed by the miracle of ivy. Don't worry, I joined the party later....
Marveling at the moss-covered wall. Not pictured: the pack of runners that almost ran us over shortly thereafter.
Greg was pretty pleased with the transition-- it meant he got to do more things like this :p
Anyway... since we had no other plans for the day, we decided to follow the signs to a "Modern Art Museum." Only, every time the signs appeared, they said it was the same distance away. We began to wonder if the "modern art" might be performance-based/ audience participation modern art that sends the viewer wandering downstream in a search for something that doesn't actually exist, when...
Just so frickin' overjoyed! (That's the Gallery of Modern Art archway in the distance. He's not a complete nutter :P)
We found it! (Little did we know that we'd taken the most round about way possible. It was literally a few meters from the cafe, but our nature-walk-detour took us about 1/2 a mile out of the way. Typical Greg and Christy adventure :))
We wandered there for a while, taking in lots of really off-putting sculptures (like a GIANT room-size statue of a naked baby...) and generally feeling snooty...
Then caught a bus back to the city centre. We wandered for a while, enjoying tourist-pandering sounds of bagpipes on the Royal Mile, took a detour into the National Museum-- so Greg could see the dinosaurs and I could see the really excellent collection of medieval Scottish artifacts (NERDS)-- and eventually decided we were far too hungry to continue.
So we had the what-do-you-want for dinner conversation. I don't know about
your relationships, but 9 times out of ten, the conversation in our relationship goes something like this:
Greg looks at me and says, "I'm feeling a curry tonight. Are you feeling a curry?"
And naturally, I respond, "Greg, I'm always feeling a curry."
Aaaaand scene. Decision made.
So we went on a quest for Indian food. Because neither of us our Edinburgh natives, we resolved to follow our noses. Which seems like a bad idea, but in Scotland, where there are Indian restaurants pretty much every half-step you take, it can yield some pretty incredible results. And it did. We ate in a hole-in-the-wall restaurant, seated on cushions and surrounded by low-hanging ceilings, where we stuffed our faces for under 7 quid each. Despite our intense loyalty to the affordability of St Andrew's Maishas...This had to win out. It was amazing. Capped off our evening with some whisky in a tiny little pub with a great selection (that was playing the Sound of Music soundtrack, to which the bartenders were singing along...definitely my kind of place) looked at each other and decided:
This was WAY better than Dublin.